Dries Van Noten AW19

Copywriting

Mastermind of eclectic craftsmanship, Dries Van Noten brings his idea of ‘Nostalgia del futuro’ to AW19. With a long lasting career spanning three decades, the Belgian designer and accomplished member of the legendary Antwerp Six delivers a precise look on future tailoring.

From start to finish it’s clear what the message of this collection is and where it originated. A backdrop of people that inspire Van Noten covered the soundtrack to the show in Paris. This included snippets of songs and mixed conversations from David Bowie and his 80’s persona, Kurt Cobain, David Hockney, Christopher Isherwood, Yves Saint Laurent and a collage of Jimi Hendrix’s tie-dye guitar riffs.

Executed through a modern take on tailoring for generations to come, Van Noten has played with innovative tie-dyes, squared shoulders and pleated trousers marrying together sculptural and feminised shapes. As well as the dominance of tailoring in this collection, everything is considered. A conscious decision to match the materials used for shoes and belts enhances the polished and clean design. A fundamental approach and aesthetic on clear thinking and dressing well.

A standout from the collection comes in the form of the Valder Parka. A four-pocket inherent tie-dye printed parka essential for the changing of the seasons. Made up with a double zip closure system and shell lining, it is reminiscent to the classic parka with an experimental progression.

Dries Van Noten has described this collection as “a very elegant wardrobe” based on the importance of young people and the future. But by doing so he has also looked back in time. A rewind into early-70’s psychedelic prints, surging patterns and a tie-dye injection of colour offers up a counterbalance to youthful tailoring and the contemporary proposal for elegance that Van Noten is pursuing.